Vegacervera to Poladura Via Buiza

Vegacervera to Poladura Via Buiza 27km

I had lunch in the Restaurant El Molino  in Vegacervera and a large roll in the evening and the owner was very helpful and friendly.  It was a fine start again this morning with a steady hike up to Coladilla, which evidently is famous for it sheep’s yogurt.  Unfortunately, I’ve not been able to buy any yet. The camino has been diverted off of the road from here and now it’s a lovely stroll through high pastures. The last stretch of this section into Valle de Vegacervera follows a very old path between dry stone walls. Unfortunately, many of the rocks have fallen off of the top of the walls onto the path that makes walking quite difficult. However, you can simply use the fields to the left for most of the way. The way continues along a very quiet road into Ciñera and then heads off road. This section is another spectacular route and has a part that is very steep heading down to a narrow way through a gorge. Quite vertiginous and it would be dangerous in the wet. Thereafter, it’s another quiet stroll to Buiza. At Buiza I had expected some sort of marker to show the junction of the Camino Olvidado and the San Salvador but I saw nothing.  The way was well marked again and from here I’ll continue onto Poladura on the Salvador. I’ll start a new thread for that in the Salvador section. 

The first section of this walk is in my ‘live’ thread in the Camino Olvidado section of the forum. 

I got into Buiza just before 1200 and thought I would see some clear marker to designate the meeting of the 2 caminos but saw  nothing. However, there was a very clear sign for the San Salvador. This was the first obvious difference to the Olvidado which being a relatively unknown route has less regular camino signs. The first part of the 10km to Poladura is persistently uphill with a simple to follow track and the second section is persistently down. Lovely hike on what is again a beautiful blue sky day.  Arrived into Poladura and decided to stay at the Casa Rural Posada. It’s a little expensive at 42 euros but it is full today. Strangely, the Albergue is empty at the moment. I had a look and it’s fine. 12 cosy bunk beds, and there is a kitchen and the usual facilities. There some confusion about the correct phone number for the Albergue and that maybe why it is empty. However, I’m told, by my camino hero Laurie (who was told by another very reliable camino hero called Enders (who was very influential in getting the Olvidado know) that the correct number is 606 104 889! Currently, there are more than 6 peregrinos sitting in the garden here and up to now I’ve only seen 2 Spanish peregrinos since I left Bilbao 12 days ago. Plan to go to Pola de Lena tomorrow. I

Bonar to Vegacervera 28km

Bonar to Vegacervera 28km

The weather is getting cooler in the morning and there was a real chill in the air. However, it was a clear sky and looked to be a great day. Straight forward way out of Bonar along the river then you turn right and walk uphill for the next 15km! The way was extremely well marked and I could follow the yellow arrows all the way. Amazingly,  when I got to La Mata de la Berbula at just after 0930 there was a bar and it was open, on a Sunday!! Stopped for a coffee and some cake and headed out again. Really glad I stopped there because the next 4 kms are up some extremely  tough slopes. Not that that matters as the view was stupendous. There are a number of points when you think you are at the top, but you not! In fact once you find yourself in some high pastures with the ubiquitous cows, goats and horses then you are past the top. Wikiloc had it at 1680m. 

After Correcillas it’s a long gradual way into Vegacervera that is primarily on tarmac. However, it’s a very quiet road and it winds through oaks along side the river. This was another fantastic day that truly deserves the label - awesome (in the English usage). The track is challenging in places but the views are well worth the effort. To find the remains of a roman road up that high was a real treat. I’m staying in a place called El Chalten, which is a group of chalets with bunk beds. Only me in one chalet but a few of the others are occupied by a Spanish group doing some outdoor adventure activities. Tomorrow I head for Buiza and that’s about 16km which is where I leave the Camino Olvidado and join the Camino San Salvador heading for Oviedo. I plan to stop at Poladura which is 9kms further on. 

Cistierna to Bonar 31km

Cistierna to Bonar 31km

Last night in the Moderno was excellent. A lovely meal and because I said I was leaving early and didn’t want breakfast she insisted in giving me some fruit and orange juice to take with me. Cloudy to start with but it soon brightened up to be another lovely sunny day. The walk was simple  although there was a shortage of camino markers in some places and some had simply fallen over. The walk was mostly on rural tracks and it was a lovely day. However, compared to the previous 2 magnificent days it seemed a little lacklustre. Don’t misunderstand me, it was a wonderful walk, just not memorable. Now staying in Hostal Nisi which is a fine place. Really big and as always I seem to get a room on the

top (3rd) floor!  Decided to have lunch today (it’s now 1600!) as I expect getting a meal at a sensible time on Saturday night is unlikely!  Off the Vegacervera tomorrow- only about 27km. However, being a Sunday I expect everywhere to be closed. 

Puente-Almuhey to Cistierna 24kms

Puente-Almuhey to Cistierna 24kms

Had a lazy day today as it was a short hike. Got up after 0800, had a relaxing breakfast with a large cafe leche and toast. With an expected 4hr hike I left at 0930. However, it was slightly longer than advertised as I arrived just after 1400. Turns out it is actually 24kms. Not that the extra made a difference to me. As for this stage it is absolutely wonderful.  In fact if I wanted to show someone the essence of a camino I would take them on this stage. It has everything - gentle stroll through pastures with the donging of cow bells, woods and forests. Good tracks, including a little bit of very quiet road, rural tracks, forest trails and the equivalent of goat trails! There are panoramic views, picturesque churches and a sanctuary as well as pretty lakes. In addition, there is no long bit at the end of the hike where you can see the destination in the distance. The first sighting of Cistierna is when it is only about 3 kms away. It’s flat at the start with a 4km uphill section about half way and if you are lucky like I was you will meet a goatherd with his 8 dogs and a local fungi hunter! The fungi hunter, despite my standard phrase saying I have little Spanish, spoke to me for about 5 minutes. He was extremely agreeable and clearly knew of the Camino Olviado and of its old name. He was also trying to explain about another camino that crossed this one close by that he call camino frankengena (my English phonetics) that I don’t think I have heard off. So for whatever reason don’t miss this stage. In fact I think it was even better than yesterday’s stage!  Staying at Hostel Moderno today and off the Bonar tomorrow. 

Guardo to Puente-Almuhey via the High route 32km

Guardo to Puente-Almuhey via the High route 32km

A fantastic start to the day as when I left at dawn the sky was crystal clear. That made the route decision easy. Could not miss the treats of the high route (having walked it, it would be wrong to call it a mountain route) on such a beautiful day, so happy to walk 32km to PA instead of 16km. It was about 1.5km from Albergue Norte to pick up the trail and then a simple although uninspiring stroll to Velilla. I used the Camino app for this hike. After crossing the bridge it goes uphill for about the next 15km through oak and then pine forests. This part of the hike needs a lot of attention as the markings seem non existent and although I had the Olviado camino app track the gps accuracy was surprisingly poor. I would be extremely wary of trying this route without gps. In addition, Laurie’s advice about keeping high and left at the coal workings was invaluable. There are so many different tracks in this uphill section until you reach the coal workings it is extremely easy to take the wrong one - I know! After that the way becomes more obvious and on a clear day as shown by the photos the view is wonderful. Unusually, I had lunch on the hike today and had a picnic sat on a lovely bench just above Caminayo. Interestingly, Caminayo was more prosperous than I expected- there are a few new houses and some being built. Also I saw three people younger than 30! The way out of there is very well marked and it’s a lovely route down to Valderrueda. From there the route is again clearly marked but the last 3 or 4km take you alongside the highway when there is an excellent alternative called Calle Mina that can be easily seen on google maps! Staying at Hotel Rio Cea which is good and friendly. Stuck with a short day tomorrow to Cistierna of only 21km owing to accommodation limitations so will use the time to plan my San Salvador trip. 

I want to add a separate comment about the markings on this route - they are poor. Given the huge map in the centre of town promoting this high way I expected the markings to be very good. However, the first I noticed was after the bridge in Velilla then did not see another one until at the top of the hill. Thereafter, until Caminayo I saw a few of the rusty ones but in strange places such as along a straight section with no turn off options or my favourite (see photo) which was on the edge of the track pointing straight int the wood. For such a route they really do need to be better and clearer. 

Cervera de Pisuerga to Guardo 40kms

3108

Cervera de Pisuerga to Guardo 40kms

It started out clear as I left at dawn and stayed sunny for about the first hour. However, as I climbed higher the mist dropped and it stayed dull for about the next 3 hours. Luckily, it cleared up and the rest of the day was mostly in sunshine. The first hour of the walk, as the path climbed higher,was a lovely stroll along a rural track. I met a couple of hunters on the way but was not sure what they were after. Once the main climb ended it was a delightful day walking through high tracks and pastures.  Lots of cows, with their slightly off tune bells, and an amazing number of mouse holes! Cervera was a pretty little town, although very quite. However, there was a lot of interesting architecture. The route was sparsely marked for the first section today, but the final 20km or so was much better.  Still a variety of routes marked so it still needs harmonising for clarity. I’ve included a photo of a bridge that I’m pleased was no longer in use. When entering one of the very small villages, I think it was the one just before Santibanez, I saw an old lady struggling up the hill with two bags in her hand at a walking stick. She was very bent over and about half way up placed one bag on the floor.  I assume to walk back and collect later!  I could hardly go strolling past, so I picked up the dropped bag and offered to take the other one to help her home. Her house mush have been about 700m away and she had gone to her plot to get today’s vegetables.  Needless to say, it took a while to get to her house and she nattered all the way, despite me saying how little Spanish I had. However, once we got to her house she gave me a wonderful tomato and then insisted on taking me to the church. It was next to her house and she wanted to show me the very old stone with the pilgrim symbols on it.  Well worth the detour as it looks like it may come from the days of the original pilgrims.  Hope to go to Puente-Almuhey tomorrow via the ‘mountain route, so let’s hope the weather is OK. 

Aguilar de Campoo to Cervera de Pisuerga 30km

Aguilar de Campoo to Cervera de Pisuerga 30km

Had a good meal at Hotel Valentin last night which also seemed to have quite a few English guests. Best of all was seeing 2 otters playing in the river when I walked back to the room. It’s was a lovely stage today with a straight walk to the dam in the outskirts of Aguilar where I saw the first camino sign. It was another one of the rustic (that is rusty!) ones. Personally, I far prefer a simple yellow arrow which is also easier to see. It was a very varied walk to day with a few gentle hills, plenty of time along a river and a few particularly interesting sites such as the necropolis and the rock carved hermitage. As always, I have seen lots of fungi and a few fungi harvesters, but strangely they don’t seem interested in the ones we in the UK call parasol mushrooms. I have seen hundreds of them and they make excellent eating. Also saw my first fly fisherman today who was after trout. Always been surprised how few fishermen I see on the camino given how many trout I see!  In fact all of the water seems underused- I’ve yet to see a boat, canoe or craft of any sort in the water. I am staying at the Albergue Turistico Rivera del Pisuerga Cervera which is excellent. For 12 euros I even get a private room. As I arrived quite early again (1300). I decided to have menu del dia for lunch today to avoid having to eat after 2100 tonight. I had a wonderful bean and octopus broth to start with and then chicken cooked in cider. Yogurt and local honey to finish and with water, wine and coffee it was 15 euros. Off to Guardo tomorrow. 

Olea to Aguilar de Campoo 25 kms

A short day for me. Tried to have a later start but woke up at 0645. Miguel had left the makings for breakfast so I decided to have a bun and marmalade with tea. However, it was green tea that smelt like boiled grass so I reverted to coffee. Delayed leaving until just before 0800 and got here at just before 1300. It was a fairly uneventful day with the exception of three large ‘hunting ‘ dogs just after leaving. Had to resort to throwing a large rock at the more aggressive of the 3. In fact there were a few enthusiastic dogs today and that’s not really been a problem on this camino so far. The way was simple and fairly uninspiring with the exception of a couple of wonderful roman bridges. It was mostly well marked although there were a few places where Ender’s app, Wikiloc track and the metal Camino Olvidado signs disagreed. However, I’m sure they would all end up here. Off to Cervera de Pisuerga tomorrow. 

Soncillo to Olea 49 km

Soncillo to Olea 49kms

It was not the day I thought I had planned!  There was much talk in the bar last night of heavy rain for today with thunder storms in the early afternoon. It rain hard overnight but was clear this morning and I had planned to walk to Arroyo and stay at La Lobera. As it was only about 28 km I decided to just walk quickly and then I should miss most of the storms. I stopped at Arija for a coffee and pincho and was well ahead of my time. Also the sky still looked clear with no signs of storms. I walked on and soon realised I would be at La Lobera around 1300 which is much earlier than I like to stop. I looked at the alternatives and Olea seemed the only option with accommodation but was not sure about walking another 20 ish kms. Got to La Lobera at just after 1300 having decided to stay there after all. However, I was told the room would not be ready for at least 2 hours. Didn’t fancy sitting around so said sorry but I would not be staying. Hence I ended up on Olea. This makes tomorrow’s walk easier as now I only have 24kms over the hills to Aguilar. However, having not intended to be at Casa Miguel in Olea I arrive with nothing but emergency rations. Miguel solved this by taking me to his friends (now closed) resturant, who supplies me with a take away plus a cold beer and vino tinto. What more could I want? As for the walk itself - it was a very pleasant day with mostly rural scenery. Lots of tarmac but surprisingly plenty of wild life, including deer, foxes, hedgehogs, snakes and a colourful lizard as well a a few semi wild horses. Only the lizard stayed around for a photo! The scenery was very interesting and the Ebro reservoir is in view for most of the day. The last few kms included a couple of hills just to extend the exercise. Most surprisingly there were 2 other Spanish peregrinos here walking the Olviado. Now Miguel has invited me to try his wine!

Espinosa to Soncillo 30 kms

Espinosa to Soncillo 30 kms

Had heavy rain and thunder storms yesterday evening and overnight, but it was dry again this morning. A bit cooler today after yesterday’s 30 deg so that and the great track made it a good day. Most of the way was on very rural tracks with the limestone escarpments dominant to the south. The track was a little muddy in places and parts would be very difficult in the rain. However, the markings were excellent, although the odd one was a little faded ( see photo ) and very easy to follow. Unusually, I had a coffee at the start of the day and stopped half way in Quisicedo at a great bar for another coffee and a mid morning snack. Had what was the best ‘crackling’ I have ever had and a pincho of Serrano ham with stuffed pepper. Yum yum and only 3.80 euros. Now staying in the Hotel El Capricho de Clemente which has very large rooms at charge 35 euros half board!

Balmaseda to Espinosa de los Monteros 43 kms.

A long day today but it fits in well with my other days plans.  I started at 0720 and arrived at 1625.  I had planned to stop a few times on the way for a coffee and pinchos. Unfortunately,  all the bars I saw were closed!

The first few kms out of Balmaseda were a little dull as it was mostly along the main road. However, this soon changed and there was plenty of road with a fair bit on a medieval road that was fascinating if a little uncomfortable. Passed what must be a spectacular waterfall, but it was mostly dry today. Also saw a lot of wild flowers and in particular lots of wild crocus. I planned to use Enders app and his Wikiloc route today. This is my first camino using Wikiloc and I am now a fan as it beeps if you wander of course so you don’t need to keep looking at the map. However,  there were a few places where either the 2 apps did not agree or the yellow arrows were pointing in a different direction. Not a major problem as I new they would all take me to my destination.  At once point i chose to follow the Wikiloc route which gradually got overgrown and harder to walk along. Although there were still the occasional arrows. All the routes join up again so it just adds to the fun!  That said the yellow markings were not as good today and it would have been awkward without the gps tracks.  Off to Soncillo tomorrow which should only be about 34 kms. Staying at the Hotel Rural la Casa del Montero tonight and all seems good. Looking forward to something hearty to eat tonight. 

Bilbao hostel to Balmaseda 33 Kms.

Left just after 0715 and arrived at the beautiful hotel convento san roque in Balmaseda just after 1400. It made a pleasant change to have a choice of places for coffee this morning as I was in the city!  Often I don’t get a coffee until after 1100. The cafes also all had a great choice of breakfast pinchos . I continued to follow Enders route along the river until I got to puente del diablo where I saw my first camino signs. Thereafter the route was well marked and it basically followed the river valley to Balmaseda. Overall, it was better than expected as the river was within hearing most of the time and although the first section is a little industrial, most is now defunct with a lot of pre and post 19th century water powered mills and factories. The majority of the walk is on tarmac or concrete and much is on a cycle path. Sections have be caste in situ with a cobblestone pattern - very uncomfortable. Luckily, despite it being a clear blue sky, much of the path was in shade so I stayed coolish until after 1100. Stoped at Guenes for a free drink - an offer to peregrinos if you complete their online surveys about a potential Albergue (AdP) - and I had a pincho of omelette and crab for breakfast. Now staying at the rather grand hotel which gave a pilgrim price of 33 euros for a lovely double room. Feet and body seem fine although my shoulders ache - I must adjust my waist strap - I plan to head for Espinosa de los Monteros tomorrow. 

Bilbao the start

Flew into Bilbao without incident and took the bus to the city centre. Then walked to the cathedral for the start of the camino. Like most of the large cities on the Caminos the marking for the routes are hard to see even if they do exist! On most of my Caminos I have normally found a sign that designates the start but I missed it in Bilbao. Not that it mattered as I had already decided to follow Enders route along the river as it passed very close to my room for the night!  Finally saw a yellow arrow about 4 Kms along the river bank and then there were lots. I head off to Balmaseda tomorrow for my first real day. It was 25 degrees and overcast in Bilbao today.