Aguilar de Campoo to Cervera de Pisuerga 30km

Aguilar de Campoo to Cervera de Pisuerga 30km

Had a good meal at Hotel Valentin last night which also seemed to have quite a few English guests. Best of all was seeing 2 otters playing in the river when I walked back to the room. It’s was a lovely stage today with a straight walk to the dam in the outskirts of Aguilar where I saw the first camino sign. It was another one of the rustic (that is rusty!) ones. Personally, I far prefer a simple yellow arrow which is also easier to see. It was a very varied walk to day with a few gentle hills, plenty of time along a river and a few particularly interesting sites such as the necropolis and the rock carved hermitage. As always, I have seen lots of fungi and a few fungi harvesters, but strangely they don’t seem interested in the ones we in the UK call parasol mushrooms. I have seen hundreds of them and they make excellent eating. Also saw my first fly fisherman today who was after trout. Always been surprised how few fishermen I see on the camino given how many trout I see!  In fact all of the water seems underused- I’ve yet to see a boat, canoe or craft of any sort in the water. I am staying at the Albergue Turistico Rivera del Pisuerga Cervera which is excellent. For 12 euros I even get a private room. As I arrived quite early again (1300). I decided to have menu del dia for lunch today to avoid having to eat after 2100 tonight. I had a wonderful bean and octopus broth to start with and then chicken cooked in cider. Yogurt and local honey to finish and with water, wine and coffee it was 15 euros. Off to Guardo tomorrow. 

Olea to Aguilar de Campoo 25 kms

A short day for me. Tried to have a later start but woke up at 0645. Miguel had left the makings for breakfast so I decided to have a bun and marmalade with tea. However, it was green tea that smelt like boiled grass so I reverted to coffee. Delayed leaving until just before 0800 and got here at just before 1300. It was a fairly uneventful day with the exception of three large ‘hunting ‘ dogs just after leaving. Had to resort to throwing a large rock at the more aggressive of the 3. In fact there were a few enthusiastic dogs today and that’s not really been a problem on this camino so far. The way was simple and fairly uninspiring with the exception of a couple of wonderful roman bridges. It was mostly well marked although there were a few places where Ender’s app, Wikiloc track and the metal Camino Olvidado signs disagreed. However, I’m sure they would all end up here. Off to Cervera de Pisuerga tomorrow. 

Soncillo to Olea 49 km

Soncillo to Olea 49kms

It was not the day I thought I had planned!  There was much talk in the bar last night of heavy rain for today with thunder storms in the early afternoon. It rain hard overnight but was clear this morning and I had planned to walk to Arroyo and stay at La Lobera. As it was only about 28 km I decided to just walk quickly and then I should miss most of the storms. I stopped at Arija for a coffee and pincho and was well ahead of my time. Also the sky still looked clear with no signs of storms. I walked on and soon realised I would be at La Lobera around 1300 which is much earlier than I like to stop. I looked at the alternatives and Olea seemed the only option with accommodation but was not sure about walking another 20 ish kms. Got to La Lobera at just after 1300 having decided to stay there after all. However, I was told the room would not be ready for at least 2 hours. Didn’t fancy sitting around so said sorry but I would not be staying. Hence I ended up on Olea. This makes tomorrow’s walk easier as now I only have 24kms over the hills to Aguilar. However, having not intended to be at Casa Miguel in Olea I arrive with nothing but emergency rations. Miguel solved this by taking me to his friends (now closed) resturant, who supplies me with a take away plus a cold beer and vino tinto. What more could I want? As for the walk itself - it was a very pleasant day with mostly rural scenery. Lots of tarmac but surprisingly plenty of wild life, including deer, foxes, hedgehogs, snakes and a colourful lizard as well a a few semi wild horses. Only the lizard stayed around for a photo! The scenery was very interesting and the Ebro reservoir is in view for most of the day. The last few kms included a couple of hills just to extend the exercise. Most surprisingly there were 2 other Spanish peregrinos here walking the Olviado. Now Miguel has invited me to try his wine!

Espinosa to Soncillo 30 kms

Espinosa to Soncillo 30 kms

Had heavy rain and thunder storms yesterday evening and overnight, but it was dry again this morning. A bit cooler today after yesterday’s 30 deg so that and the great track made it a good day. Most of the way was on very rural tracks with the limestone escarpments dominant to the south. The track was a little muddy in places and parts would be very difficult in the rain. However, the markings were excellent, although the odd one was a little faded ( see photo ) and very easy to follow. Unusually, I had a coffee at the start of the day and stopped half way in Quisicedo at a great bar for another coffee and a mid morning snack. Had what was the best ‘crackling’ I have ever had and a pincho of Serrano ham with stuffed pepper. Yum yum and only 3.80 euros. Now staying in the Hotel El Capricho de Clemente which has very large rooms at charge 35 euros half board!

Balmaseda to Espinosa de los Monteros 43 kms.

A long day today but it fits in well with my other days plans.  I started at 0720 and arrived at 1625.  I had planned to stop a few times on the way for a coffee and pinchos. Unfortunately,  all the bars I saw were closed!

The first few kms out of Balmaseda were a little dull as it was mostly along the main road. However, this soon changed and there was plenty of road with a fair bit on a medieval road that was fascinating if a little uncomfortable. Passed what must be a spectacular waterfall, but it was mostly dry today. Also saw a lot of wild flowers and in particular lots of wild crocus. I planned to use Enders app and his Wikiloc route today. This is my first camino using Wikiloc and I am now a fan as it beeps if you wander of course so you don’t need to keep looking at the map. However,  there were a few places where either the 2 apps did not agree or the yellow arrows were pointing in a different direction. Not a major problem as I new they would all take me to my destination.  At once point i chose to follow the Wikiloc route which gradually got overgrown and harder to walk along. Although there were still the occasional arrows. All the routes join up again so it just adds to the fun!  That said the yellow markings were not as good today and it would have been awkward without the gps tracks.  Off to Soncillo tomorrow which should only be about 34 kms. Staying at the Hotel Rural la Casa del Montero tonight and all seems good. Looking forward to something hearty to eat tonight. 

Bilbao hostel to Balmaseda 33 Kms.

Left just after 0715 and arrived at the beautiful hotel convento san roque in Balmaseda just after 1400. It made a pleasant change to have a choice of places for coffee this morning as I was in the city!  Often I don’t get a coffee until after 1100. The cafes also all had a great choice of breakfast pinchos . I continued to follow Enders route along the river until I got to puente del diablo where I saw my first camino signs. Thereafter the route was well marked and it basically followed the river valley to Balmaseda. Overall, it was better than expected as the river was within hearing most of the time and although the first section is a little industrial, most is now defunct with a lot of pre and post 19th century water powered mills and factories. The majority of the walk is on tarmac or concrete and much is on a cycle path. Sections have be caste in situ with a cobblestone pattern - very uncomfortable. Luckily, despite it being a clear blue sky, much of the path was in shade so I stayed coolish until after 1100. Stoped at Guenes for a free drink - an offer to peregrinos if you complete their online surveys about a potential Albergue (AdP) - and I had a pincho of omelette and crab for breakfast. Now staying at the rather grand hotel which gave a pilgrim price of 33 euros for a lovely double room. Feet and body seem fine although my shoulders ache - I must adjust my waist strap - I plan to head for Espinosa de los Monteros tomorrow. 

Bilbao the start

Flew into Bilbao without incident and took the bus to the city centre. Then walked to the cathedral for the start of the camino. Like most of the large cities on the Caminos the marking for the routes are hard to see even if they do exist! On most of my Caminos I have normally found a sign that designates the start but I missed it in Bilbao. Not that it mattered as I had already decided to follow Enders route along the river as it passed very close to my room for the night!  Finally saw a yellow arrow about 4 Kms along the river bank and then there were lots. I head off to Balmaseda tomorrow for my first real day. It was 25 degrees and overcast in Bilbao today.