Reliegos to Leon 25kms

A short day to Leon to get me well placed for the 29kms uphill to La Robla tomorrow. Started off dry but chilly and did not get above 14 degrees when I arrived at the  Albergue at just before 1200. Did all my essentials and then took a stroll that included a lovely light lunch of tostada (think half a long ciabatta toasted) with roasted leeks (a local specialty), olive oil, semi dried tomatoes and sardines. Yummy. Took a general stroll around the city and it’s a very pleasant place with lots of history. Now trying to plan my stages on the Camino Olvidado after La Robla. 

Sahagun to Reliegos 32km

Bit more awkward than my other days as the ideal town to stay had no beds at all. That’s a common problem on the busy Camino Frances now. So I decided to walk and see. Started earlier than normal and left just after 0630. It’s not full daylight until after 0800 and fortunately my night vision is good and there was no one around with their dam headlights to ruin my vision. Then had about 4 hours of rain. As I am heading north from Leon to La Robla which is about 29 kms and uphill most of the way,I expect to stay in Leon which really leaves me 2 short days. I thought I would head for Reliegos and it’s public Albergue. With 44 places I thought there would be space - and there was plenty, so here I am. Which leaves me a very short 25km day to Leon tomorrow. 

Cuenca de Campos to Sahagún 40kms

A simple walk today that was unremarkable, mostly flat and well marked. Villon was the first stop as there was a bar open before 0900. I grabbed a coffee and walked on. There are some quite remarkable buildings in the town and it makes you wonder how they stay up. I say first stop, but there was nothing else to stop for on the way. I had a satsuma and some cured ham to eat on the way so was fine. I am staying at Hostal Escarcha (listed on Gronze). Quite a few other places I contacted today were full. Welcome to the Frances. Walked into the main square and there are about 4 bars all with peregrinos outside. I saw 4 in total on the Madrid.

Castelmonte to Cuenca de Campos 38km

 Castelmonte to Cuenca de Campos 38km

Lovely clear sky to start and a little chilly. Easy route to Median di Rioseco and got there about 1000. A clearly beautiful town but at the time not a lot already open. Popped into a couple of place but they only had sweet things to eat so carried on through the town and just before the start of the canal there is every peregrinos saviour,  Dia supermarket!  Topped up my general supplies and bought a couple of savoury treats. Eat this in the little park at the head of the canal. Seems strange to me they did not have a cafe there. Then followed the lovely track alongside the canal towards Tamariz. Again, at the end of the end of the canal theirs is an old and very dilapidated mill building. Probably a factory in its time. 5 storeys high and mostly surrounded by water. Now just a wreck and nothing there. Seems a real pity as in many other countries it would be a destination with bars and boat. Carried on to Tamariz and as it was only 1300 walked on again. Planned to stop in Cuenca and hoping the Tata was open. It was!  Got there at 1500 and they stopped serving food at 1600 so opted to stay there as well. Did not think I could be certain of getting into the albergue and wash and changed in time! Had a fantastic meal. Room was 25 euros and the meal was 17 euros including a very good bottle of rose and second helpings of the main course!  They also served vegetables! Having a short stroll atm to walk off lunch! Unfortunately, there seems to be nowhere open here this evening! Maybe Sahagún tomorrow? Is tomorrow really my last day on the Camino Madrid? Any recommendations for the place to stay?

Puente Douro to Castelmonte. 37kms

A tougher day than the distance would lead me to expect. In part because there are a few sneaky steep but short hills but also because I picked up a cold on fri which has reduced my energy levels. On top of that I pulled a lower back muscle on sun morning!  OK when I am walking but the transition with the rucksack is awkward. All that said it was a nice hike with plenty of small places to break up the day. Picked up some bread and cheese in a very small shop in Cigunuela and had a coffee somewhere I can’t remember! Now waiting outside the albergue. There are numbers call on the door at it states it’s open from 0900 to 2200. They came within 10 minutes of my call. Great albergue lots of space and a washing machine. Kitchen has great facilities which is useful as the one bar seems not to do any food. Fortunately I always bring something as there was little open from my start to here. I know that previous posters (David Taland??) have said there were 2 bars but the lady opening the albergue insists now there is only 1. And there is only one on their map. Off to Cuenca de Campos tomorrow - I think!

Villeguillo to Puete Duero 43kms

 The meal at bar social was very average last night. Just the equivalent of sausage egg and chips. Disappointingly average. Lovely walk today mostly overcast then a short spell of rain then sunshine. At least the rain damped down the sand on the track. As lovely as the pine forests are I have seen enough of them. Got to Acazaren at 1030 and felt a little tired already. However, after a large coffee and half a metre of tostadas with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and ham I was ready for the next section. This was at Bar Hogar(?) and for only 5 euros. The albergue at PD is a lovely place and Sarah is a great host. Seems all the restaurants have gone on their holidays at the same time!  So she is cooking. Unfortunately, it’s another tortilla. However, as home cooked I have my fingers crossed. Probably off to Castromonte tomorrow. No Wi-Fi again so no pictures- nothing special to see in any case. 

Nieva to Villeguillo 28kms.

Lovely clear morning again and a very well marked way. Mostly through pine forests which gave plenty of shade. However, the ground is sand so not the best of surfaces for long walks. Go to Coca at 1130 and had a choice of at least 3 bars for coffee. Then carried on towards Villeguillo. Still undecided whether to stop there of not. However, when I arrived the Bar Social was open (it closes 1600 to 1900) and they confirmed they would do food that night. The albergue key holder’s address is on the bar door. Had a small beer and a snack while checking the rain radar. I felt plenty strong enough to walk the additional 17kms and it looked like the rain would stay away for a couple of hours. I set off towards Alcazaren but it started to rain lightly after 20 mins. Left me in a quandary. Turn back or go on?  I turned back as I new there was a good albergue there with a place to eat and I did not want to have to walk another 17km in the rain. Plus it’s a bit early for 40km plus day. The albergue here is very pleasant. Simple but well maintained with a fridge and microwave. Also the bar social was very welcoming. Probably off to Puente Duero tomorrow. No Wi-Fi here so not uploading photos- nothing special in any case.