Monday 15 October 2012

Baamonde to Miraz only 16km

Baamonde to Miraz only 16km


A quiet night in the AdP without the French cacophony. Wanted to sleep in a bit this morning as we had less than 4 hrs to hike to Miraz but I woke up before 0700 in any case. Left the AdP at 0800 as there was little point going far in the dark and it was drizzling persistently which meant I needed my poncho. First part was along the road which worked well given that it was dark till almost 0830. Had some descent light before we turned off the road and over a very old bridge that marks the 100km to SdC.  Just past the bridge is another very old Romanesque church in a pretty grove set out as a resting place. It would probably have been a lovely spot to sit had the sun been out. Thereafter it was a good track through fields and wood that all looked much like a typical Devon lane. A fantastic location for fungi hunter with lots to choose from and with parasol and shaggy inkcaps in abundance. Contrary to the information available there were also at least two cafe bars on the way so we had coffee and Santiago flan for breakfast after the first 2hrs hiking.  Rain had stopped by then so walking was more pleasant and we arrived at the AdP in Miraz just before midday. This AdP is run by the English organisation of the  Confraternity of St James and staffed by English  volunteers. When we got to the door the sign said it was not open until 1400 which given the previous short leg is surprising. It must be a common occurrence for people to arrive earlier than 1400 as the previous AdP insists people leave before 0800 and I is only a four to five hour stroll.  However, the door was open so we walked in and called 'Hola'. I could see four or more people sat around a table and one of the ladies came over to see us. She then informed us that despite the fact that it was raining again (and only about 13deg) that we could not come in until 1400! What a lovely Christian welcome. Unfortunately, the next leg is at least 28km which would likely take about 7hrs given the hills and that would be without a stop for lunch. So we are stuck here in a little bar waiting for the AdP to open so we can get our washing and other items done. I have only had dealing with the confraternity of St. James twice - once for the guide books that I threw away a while back and today with there unwelcoming welcome. Finally invited into the AdP at 1340 and the place is as clean as I would have expected. Just one large room with 32 beds but all ok and no Frenchman. Lovely wood stove alight in the corner which we subsequently tried to get some chestnuts for to roast on the top of it but they are just a little too young. The prime advantage of it being Brit run is that there was tea available (and biscuits) all day long. Miraz itself is a one bar town with some lovely old rustic buildings but not much else. Cooked up our pasta finished with a apple turnover thing. Tomorrow there is breakfast at 0700 but i doubt it will be a full English.    

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