Camino 19 Summary

780kms in total for the Camino Olvidado to Buiza, then the San Salvador to Oviedo and finally the Primitivo to SdC. In truth, 22 days was a little short as I was just getting into the camino feel. Interestingly, it seems I am tending to walk further each day now. My first Camino was an average of around 25kms and now its nearer 40kms!

The Olvidado was excellent and the San Salvador was fine as a linking camino but nothing outstanding. The Primitivo felt akin to the Frances 10 years ago. Plenty of places to stay and eat and enough people to be companionable without being too busy. However, the last stretch on the Frances was a busy and annoying as I expected!

Enjoyed my time in SdC again and the San Martin Pinario (reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu) was excellent - sparse but clean and the food (especially the breakfast) was lovely. Must revisit the Colmado deli (same street as the bakers I used to use) next time…….

Arzúa to SdC 39 km

Arzúa to SdC 39 kms

The Albergue last night was fine but the crowd that turned up as a large group later afternoon were a pain. Clearly people walking the last 100km and having their suitcases(!) brought along in the coach. Noisy and disorganised and frustrating when they have their music and iPads in at 0200 in the morning. Pity they got woken up early in the morning when the peregrinos were getting ready to leave. It was a nice way in this morning with a clear blue sky. Lots of people always ahead and first thing was like an illuminated procession. However, they gradually thinned out and by the time I stopped for a beer about 2 km from the cathedral most had disappeared so luckily I had a pleasant slow stroll to the end. Now booked into the San Martin de Pinario for 2 nights before if fly home on Saturday. Buen Camino!

Ferreira to Arzua 35km

Ferreira to Arzua 35 km

Last nights Albergue was fine although the much touted paella was very average- I should have gone for the veggie option. Clear sky this morning although the mist hung around in the low ground until late morning. Lovely trek to Melide this morning which was mostly without other peregrinos in sight. However, this obviously changed once the Camino Primitivo met the Camino Francis. Then it was just one long line of noisy pilgrims clicking away with their sticks. However, the day was nice and I’m in a great Albergue called Via Lactea which is very clean, comfortable and well organised. Off the SdC tomorrow which is about 39kms away. This should work out well as I’ll pass most of the peregrinos from here and others will stop before SdC which should mean my last few kms will miss the crowds as I’ll get there around 1700. 

Vilar de Cas to Ferreira 42km

Vilar de Cas to Ferreira 42km

The Hostal A Pocina de Muniz that I stayed in last night was outstanding. The place was the quality of a 5 star hotel and if I was passing that way with my wife I’d make an effort to stay there. They have private double rooms for 50 euros and the complete place was amazing. Got up to light mist today that gradually turned to drizzle and then 3 hours of rain that necessitated getting the poncho out. However, it cleared up for the last 2 hours of the walk. And that pretty much describes the hike. Dull for the most part with about 80% tarmac but got better for the last section. Now staying in Albergue Nave de Ferreira which seems ok at the moment. Off to  Arzua tomorrow and Santiago de Compostela the next day. 

Fonsagrada to Vilar de Cas 39km

Pension Manolo was great last night and the food was excellent. They served food from 1900 to 2200, much to the disappointment of Coleen when I met her and her husband just outside of Fonsagrada as they couldn’t find anything to eat before 2100ish. A lovely walk again today and the sun was out all day. There are  a couple of stiff climbs in the early part but thereafter fairly easy.  Now staying at the Hostel A Pocina de Muniz - google it - an outstanding Albergue and Hostel. It’s 14 euros for an Albergue bed and the room is magnificent. I’ve been in many 5 star hotels that don’t have the style of this place. There is also dinner on site, so happy days. I’ve just booked my flight back to uk for 12 Oct and unfortunately there seems to be no direct flights so I’ve got to go via Barcelona and have a 5 hour stopover. 

La Mesa to Fonsagrada 42 km

 The Albergue last night was good but the food selection was very limited. Easy for me as I like a hearty cabbage soup and stewed goat However, it was plentiful and good. It was quite busy last night and about 14 of the 16 beds in the room I was in were occupied. Unfortunately, it appeared to be by a national snoring orchestra and one woman played the bass trombone notes all night. Misty when I got up this morning and the Albergue was totally disorganised as far as breakfast was concerned so I just started walking at 0745 when there was just enough light. It’s a steady climb out from the Albergue and then a long descent down to the embalse. Then of course there was a long hike back up again. In fact it’s pretty much up hill all the way - even the last 1km is up a steep hill. The mist cleared by the afternoon and it stayed like that for the rest of the day. A pleasant day that in parts were like strolling through the English countryside, just with noisier cows. Staying in pension Manolo tonight to avoid the snoring. Plan to head for Vila de Cas tomorrow 

Samblismo to La Mesa 28km

Last nights Albergue was excellent. Most impressive was the superb evening meal and the wonderful breakfast that included freshly baked bread. He could add to his income by selling sandwiches for the next day (and bread making courses)! The Albergue is also situated ideally as it’s on the Pola route and the hospitalas path is less the 100m straight out the door. After the great breakfast I left at 0815 and headed up the hospitalas route. There was still some mist but it looked like it would clear quite quickly. The walk on this route is not at all difficult and it could not have been marked better if someone had drawn a yellow line along the whole way. The mist did clear before the first peak and the views were lovely. Unfortunately, the mist dropped down again after that and visibility dropped to 50m or so at some times.  During one of these times I heard suddenly something running quickly from behind towards me.  This made my heart beat a little faster. Turned out it was a dog that had followed another couple into the Albergue last night. He stayed with me for about 10 km and obviously knew the camino well. It was a lovely walk overall with very little time on road and a great stretch through a forest of Scots pine towards the end.  Just like the previous day the mist cleared away about 40 mins before the end of the walk and now it’s a clear blue sky. I had expected it to be 30km to here but it was a little shorter and a lot shorter than my preference.  However, this is a wonderful Albergue with a washing machine and dryer so it’s a great opportunity to get properly clean clothes again. Also the next opportunities to stop are 11km and then another 5km away and although it would have been doable all it would achieve is to make tomorrow shorter as the choices thereafter are limited. Did I mention there is a pool here as well? Pity it’s a little chilly. Probably off to Fonsagrada tomorrow. 

Salas to Samblismo 38km

Sunrise is getting later and there is only just enough light to start walking at 0800 if like this morning there are no city lights. Tried to explain to the 2 perigrinos I passed as we left Salas that they would be better off switching off their head lights and allowing their night vision to compensate them they would see all around them instead of just their cone of light. Their lights were like car headlights and spoilt my night vision until I could get more than 200m past them. The day was overcast and cloudy which added to the gloom.  In fact it stayed misty all day except when the path dropped a bit lower occasionally to get below the mist. At times the mist was so heavy water was dropping out of it! Visibility dropped to less than 50m at times so I have no idea what the scenery was like. However, it was a good track with a bit of a climb from Salas and little time on tarmac. A farmer that I passed just after El Espin said something to me and I first thought he was saying something about Boris (as in Johnson) and wondered what he had done now to catch the attention of a Spanish farmer. However, I soon realised he was asking if I was stopping at Borres or Campiello! I said no and he then asked what route I was taking tomorrow and I explained it depended on the weather. He then assured me tomorrow would be fine. Choice tomorrow is either the the lowerish Pola route or the Hospitalis route that goes past 2 very old pilgrim stops. I plant to take the Hospitalis ( of course!), but in the end it’s weather dependent. 

Oviedo to Salas 48km

A good start to the Primitivo. First day really revealed how different it is to the San Salvador and the Olvidado. I passed 3 times more peregrinos on my way here today than I saw in my last 2 weeks! Lots of places to stop for a coffee and even vending machines on the way to get a cold drink!  Plenty of options where to stay and as it was only 1200 when I got to Grado there was no point stopping there. Kept going to Cornellana but it was still a little early so decided to head for Sallas. It was a very pleasant walk and very misty until just before midday and then it was another clear blue sky day. I think about 40 percent was on roads but there were mostly very minor ones so virtually no traffic. Let’s see what tomorrow offers. 

Pola de Lena to Oviedo 32kms

Overcast at the start but fortunately the rain stayed away despite lots of people carrying umbrellas! The route from PdL is fairly dull at the start as it’s along the road. However, I’m moves onto an extremely popular walking path which goes most of the way to Mieres. After leaving Mieres the path gets back onto one of the sende verde and it’s a rewarding walk to Oviedo with a couple of small hills on the way. Fortunately, this nice track takes you to within about 5 km of the city before you get the first sighting of it and to within 2km before you reach the really built up part. All of today’s route was very well marked up until the last 500m or so as you head for the cathedral. Unfortunately, I got there just after it closed at 1330. However, I’m told it will reopen at 1600 so I can get my sello then. Staying in an Airbnb room tonight that’s 5 min from the cathedral. Off to the camino Primitivo tomorrow so I’ll start a new thread in that part of the forum. Very glad I walked the San Salvador as it was a good way to join the Olvidado to the Primitivo. However, in terms of experiences and outstanding scenery the Olvidado stands out. 

Poladura to Pola de Lena 41 kms

The Posada was excellent last night. Wonderful food and wine with lots of conversation. Unfortunately, for some strange strange reason it closed the bar at 2030. Another beautiful day today which is very fortunate as I would not have liked walking down some of those slopes in the wet. In places it was slippery even when bone dry. I started off using the wise pilgrim app, I have used these very successfully on other caminos. However, the one for this camino is worse than useless, it wants to take routes that are nowhere near the marked camino trail. Fortunately, the way marking is good. The section from Poladura was up to the highest part of this camino but it is fairly gradual and not difficult in this great weather. As you head towards Pajares you are offered a choice to go to the Albergue at Pajares or go to San Miguel. As I had no need to go to Pajares I took the other route. Further on you are offered the same choice again. I found the part from SM to Llanos to be much more difficult that the first high section as there are lots of very steep up and down stretches. Thereafter the rest of the way into Campomanes was very pleasant especially the part through old chestnut trees. Campomanes to Pola de Lena was relatively flat unless you decide to visit the hermita which adds another very steep hike up and down. I have chosen to stay just outside PdL as the town seems uninspiring so have already walked about 2km of tomorrows stage to Oviedo.