Deva to Aviles

Deva to Aviles another 31kms and 8.5 hour hike. 

Place was ok last night with surprisingly good food. In the season there are more than 1000 campers on site. The pilgrims accommodation comprises around 14 'cabins' read garden sheds!  Each with 6 beds. It was fine except even though there were only 6 pilgrims there last night they insisted on putting us all in the same hut! Got up earlier than usual this morning at 0640 as we were awake and headed off. The start of each days hike invariably begins with the Pilgrim's Pat when we touch each pocket to confirm we have all of our valuables.   We had a 6km walk into Gijon which was ok for a city scape and once we got out the other side and up the inevitable hill the was a pleasant hike through meadows and trees. Unfortunately, this degenerated into a 10km slog along a busy road next to a string of heavy industrial factories - see photos. Stopped in Gijon to get a new watch battery as my watch had been stuck on 0900 for the last two days. Was disappointed about the lack of silage for the first part  of today's walk as we have become quite accustomed to its sweet aroma for most of the walk. In fact I think we can detect the different material used in its brew. Two other common sites are the Horres, which are the largish wooden buildings supported on stones that are used for storage and drying produce and the old sites where the washing used to be done in the cold springs. Today was a very clear blue sky day with the temp getting very near to 30degs. I asked Rosario, an Italian friend of mine, to try to add a comment to the blog last night which you should have seen that he did successfully. So either all the Brits trying to post are technically challenged or it is a uk problem? Got to Aviles at about 1530 to the type of AdP that Ian really loved last year.  5€ for the bed - 60 beds in a single room and all a little worse for wear. I think mike will be demanding better for the next stop. Still at least there is a washing machine. Both a bit sore tonight after two consecutive 30km plus days so hope for a shorter one tomorrow. Each days hike tend to be a bit longer on the Norte than on the Francis as the accommodation options are less frequent. 

Pernus to Deva just outside Gijon about 32kms inc at least two 400m climbs (and the book said there was just one!)

Pernus to Deva just outside Gijon about 32kms inc at least two 400m climbs (and the book said there was just one!)

Pleasant start with good tracks and highlighted by some lovely fresh figs that still has the morning dew on them. Mind you a few hours later they did seem to disagree with mike. A hard walk today of a out 32kms that took 8.5 hours with a few stops in between.  Stopped about 5 kms short of Gijon so that we can walk through the city tomorrow. Tonight is cabins on a camp site in Deva. Not a bad set up and only 5€ each. However, the washing machine and dryer are 7€ in total, but it is worth it to give everything (inc our caps) a good wash. Not decided where to head for tomorrow as we did not arrive until 1630 and are still sorting ourselves out. At least there is wifi and a restaurant on site so no more walking required tonight. 

Ribadesella to Pernus about 24 kms

Ribadesella to Pernus about 24 kms

A good meal last  night set us up for a relatively easy walk today. Left at 0800 when it is still dark and headed off towards the limestone cliffs with the beach on our left. Found the first cafe at about 0915 but when the germans in front asked if they were serving coffee yet they said no!  By which time about 8 walkers had gone passed - I think it will take the Spanish economy some time to recover. Good track today through fields and next to another series of stunning beaches until we reached La Isla when the track head inland towards Sebrayu. Well marked in general until we took one indicated turn and at the next junction of unmade roads there were no sighs. So instead of walking back 300m we decided on what was the most likely way and headed off on a well made track. Followed this for about 3km as it gradually got less used. Then followed a local as he seemed to know where he was going. By now the track was very overgrown and it looked like the last vehicle down it was probably horse drawn. The man in front then abruptly turns right into what was on reflection his field! We kept on regardless and eventually the track ended in another field. At this point we got out google maps that clearly showed us on the middle of a field. Still at least we could see a track about 500m on google. So we headed off in that direction until we saw some farm buildings so we knew we must be close to a track. Next field had a donkey in it which appeared to be harmless so we headed towards a large gate in the top right hand Side of the field. Just as I was about to open the gate we notices a very quiet and very large dog about 5m from the gate! He was on a chain but we could not see how long the chain was. I tried to encourage mike to go through first to check how long the chain was but being a poor sport he refused. So walked further up to the top of the field where we could see a low wall. Unfortunately, there was an electric fences about a foot before the wall. Decided upon the engineering solution and loosened the clip on the fence to lower it to a height we could more easily step over. I gingerly stepped over the fence into the gap between it and the wall and then carefully placed my other foot onto the top of the crumbling wall. Finally got over without incident as did mike and continued on out way towards Colunga. Stopped there for a bite to eat and checked with the tourist info lady about accommodation further up the track. Did not want to go as far as Sebrayu and the other options turned out to be very limited. She advised us that there was a Casa rural about 5km further on snows asked her to check they were open and if they could provide dinner.  Answers were yes so we asked her to tell the owner we should arrive at about 1430. Got to Pernus at 1415 and stopped outside the house with the Casa rural sign on it and as this sign had the right phone number we sat down to wait for the owner. By 1445 there was no sign of anyone so decided to phone the Casa. Unfortunately, neither of us knew the country code for Spain. Texted a few people to ask. Got no response from Ian but he was probably busy and Christa said she would send it 'when I get home'! Then mike got a reply from christine - but she just asked why we wanted it!! Good job it was not an emergency. In the mean time I was looking through my 'contacts' certain there was at least one Spanish hotel listed and finally found it from a place I visited years ago. It's 0034 in case you are wondering. Called the lady and after much Spanglish found out that we were sat outside the wrong house. Owner the. Sent her husband up the road to find us. It appears that this was a common problem - pity they don't improve the sign.  Still all sorted out and now settled in a pretty little place called La Casona del Fraile ( www.casonadelfraile.com or casadealdeapernus.com). No wifi or Internet here so this will be posted later. It looks like it will be a 30km day tomorrow complete with a 400m climb as there seems to be little accommodation on the way. inin

Llanes to Ribadesella about 29kms

Llanes to Ribadesella about 29 km

Best meal so far last night and a real surprise given that we were in a tourist town.  I started with a rich veggy stew that inc a fried egg and mike had a paella. Both were large servings and very tasty. I then had hake in verde sauce with chips and peas and mike had chorizo and egg with chips. Both finished with creme caramel. All for 20€ inc a bottle of red. Good walk today although a little longer than planned. Intended to stop at Cuerres where I had been told there was a pension but we did not find it so had to walk an  extra 7kms to our final destination. It was a pleasant walk along a lot of limestone cliff tops and through fields and woods. A little road work as well but we avoided it where we could by using the E9 coastal path if suitable or google maps. Fortunately, on the way we spoke to a German couple and he had walked the route last year and said there was a very good hostel at our final destination. Managed to find it without any real trouble and it is directly on the beach! In fact our room, that cost 25€, has a sea view - see the first picture on today's blog. 1500 by the time we got here so have just done the washing and the other daily chores and i expect we will go in to town later to look for dinner. Did contemplate catching a bus back to last nights restaurant as it would probably take less than an hour!! Off towards Sebrayu tomorrow but as that is 31kms we will probably stop beforehand! The second picture just shows we had to rough it sometimes. The final picture is the obligatory beautiful beach one. 

Unquera to Llanes

Unquera to Llanes about 24kms

Stayed for breakfast this morning and was rewarded with a real piece of toast.  First part of the walk was spectacular as we climbed up a ridge and had wonderful views across the valleys. Then spent rather too long next to a noisy and  busy main road. Used google maps to find a route onto the E9 coastal path as soon as we could. The E9 is actually 5000kms long in total and is an estimated 250 day hike - the next one?! Found the E9 and then spent the next 16kms close to the sea with some huge limestone formations and one area with lots of plumes which the sea erupts through on wilder days. However, for us it was a beautiful calm blue sky day. The last part of the E9 into Llanes was a little confusing as we appeared to be some 200m above and 1km away from the town. However, the path eventually turned right and headed down to the destination. Just before Llanes I passed what appeared to be a magnificent golf course with views over the coast and towards the mountains to the south. The only other thing on route was the amusement when Mike applied his compeed stick to his lips instead of the sunblock. At least his lips should not blister when he snores tonight. Got to Llanes at 1400 by which time the Spanish close for Lunch so the tourist info was closed as we're some of the hotel receptions. Found a few open but they all wanted 40€ for the night. Found are way to an AdP which was 10€ each and it had a drying machine as well as Internet and wifi.   Off towards Ribadesella tomorrow but will probably stop short at an AdP we have been told is very good at Cuerrs which will be about 22kms. 

Comillas to Unquera about 27km

Comillas to Unquera via San Vincent de la Barquera about 28km

Had pasta for a change last night with a salad to start with, so at least I got some vegetables. The pension was lovely and quiet last night so it was a good nights sleep and they did the washing as well! Off as normal and found an open cafe at about 1015 for breakfast. Has a lovely large cup of coffee with a egg and anchovy roll - yum yum. In all it was a quiet walk and did not even have the first dog bark at us until 0915, must be Sunday morning. The main parts of the walk were through meadows and grass lands with the occasional roar of the surf. The most notable sighting being a beautiful Pine Martin.  From a previous AdP we know that a few days ago we were the 6339 and 6340 pilgrims to walk to the AdP in Guemes which is significantly more than a few years ago but still much less than on the Frances route. The English represented less than 70 of that number and more Canadians had walked the route than Brits! Fortunately, last nights heavy rain had stopped by morning and we had another dry walk. It was 27 degrees when we stopped at about 1330 today. Another nice Hostel that cost 30€ for us both inc breakfast. Off to Po or Llanes tomorrow which will be between 24 and 26kms as we finally leave Cantabria and enter Asturias. 

Santillana to Comillas

Santillana del Mar to Comillas about 24km

A fairly poor nights sleep despite the lovely room. The church bells rang all night so on every half hour there was a single ding and on the hour they rang the number of the hour and just in case you missed it the first time they rang again 5 mins later!! In addition the flock of mosquitoes flying around my head added to the disturbance  all topped off by the chickens sounding off at

0500!! Still had a pleasant stroll today with plenty of leafy lanes and pastural scenes. Pity it was 1100 before the first cafe was found open.  Ordered two coffees and two bocadillos with Serrano ham, cheese and tomatoes. Got it all ok but the rolls were more like a whole French stick each. Still at least we have lunch. Found the AdP ok but again not open until 1600 so went looking for alternatives. Mike did not fancy the first one as it right over a bar so off we went and struck lucky as the next place was still only 30€ and it was quiet and had a washing machine. All settled in now at 1400 and about to go out to eat our rolls and find some wifi. Just started raining at about 1430 so very glad to be off the trail.  Off to Unquera tomorrow which should be about 28kms.