Wed 5 Oct - Quiet night in Samos with a surprisingly good meal given that there was only 1 cafe open for food in the evening. Afterwards we spent an amusing half hour feeding some rather large trout - Oh for a rod when you need one! COP start although we have recently been buying some dry cured ham from the shop to eat for breakfast - yum yum. Very misty this morning and in the sun did not clear it away until almost mid-day. However, one of the amusing effects of the mist was to see that both Ian and I were obviously blessed as whenever a vehicle approached us from behind we got a large halo aroound our heads, the camino must be having an effect. The 2 She Orcs that had been stalking us (C&S) took an alternative path from us after O' Cebreiro so we did not see them last night, however they did reveal that they were really 2 elven princesses in disguise before they left!!!! (they did not like being classed as She Orcs!!) It is now dark until around 0800 so the Spanish must welcome the forthcoming clock change. We passed the 100km to SdC today which is a key point. Many people start the walk from the 100km point as they can still get the pilgrim's certificate if they walk the last 100km. This means that the path is a little busier and we are also seeing more coach parties that stop and walk a little of the way......... makes it noisy at times. We planned to stop at Mercadoiro today and got to the AdP Ok. All looked good and we had a shower but when I did my normal hunt around the beds and room I found some bed bugs so we up and left immediately without unpacking!! The AdP refunded the money but at first he just offered to change the matress..... - NO WAY! So off walking again and it was nearly 1500 by then. Ian called the elven princesses and asked where they were. Fortunately, they were already in an AdP in the next town which was about 6km away so we asked them to try to book us 2 beds. Luckly they could as we did not arrive in the town (Portomarin) until after 1600 which would be a bit late normally to get a good room. So we walked about 35km today but should nop have a day in hand so alls well that ends well. P:S: Ian has found an alternative use for his spork as he cannot find his comb so use the fork end instead!!!